日本三大秘境のまち

While driving about 40 minutes south from Ikeda Town in Miyoshi City, the mountains of the Yoshino River’s Koboke Gorge gradually engulf the road. 

Here, in the Yamashiro section of Miyoshi, smaller roads lead up the steep hillsides, one of which leads to a quiet little hideaway…

Retreat Space in the Sky Fujiwara

And so you know, the name “in the Sky” is not without good reason! In reaching this place up on the mountainside, the view of the Yoshino River, now far below, is utterly majestic.

But upon arrival at Fujiwara, you immediately notice a rustic hut with a chimney sticking out.

This is the location of their traditional “goemon-buro” bath, which is a large iron cauldron that is heated directly from below by wood fire.

On the day we visited, the husband and wife owners Toshimitsu and Masako Mima were cooking up the bath. It was surprising to hear that husband Toshimitsu made the whole bath-house himself.

With its small imperfections and natural details, the handmade look of the bathing space was inviting.

And the view from the “goemon-boro” tub was unforgettable. It surely is understandable why they call the place “Retreat Space in the Sky”.

At Retreat Space in the Sky Fujiwara, only one private group per night are taken for accommodation.

This privacy makes it perfect for spending some quiet time with family or close friends. And if your timing is right, the commanding views from here allow for seeing early morning “Unkai” (“Sea of Clouds”) formations in the valley without needing to go elsewhere. The fact that you can wake up and see such a spectacular sight right from the guest house is certainly unique! 

Watching the wondrous Unkai while drinking your morning coffee makes you feel like you have the valley all to yourself. 

Ms. Masako, the owner, grew up in the house as a child, and together with her husband, they converted the place into a guest house “in the sky” in 2017. 

Inside, the space had been nicely reformed, eliminating any inconvenience for staying overnight as a guest.

There are also lots of nostalgic mementos about the place, including old marker lines drawn onto the wall from when Masako was a child which indicated her continually increasing height.

Actually, Masako and Toshimitsu also operate another guest house in Itano Town (a couple hours away, over near Tokushima City), known as the 120-year-old “Morimoto-ya Inn”, and is located near Jizo-ji Temple, which is the 5th temple of the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage. But about once a week, they come out to Fujiwara to maintain their Retreat Space in the Sky for guests.

No doubt, it’s fitting that they chose the name “retreat”, being that it conjures the image of both a “resting place” and a “hide-out”.

For indeed, the place goes well with current trends in travel, where people are looking for not just a quiet getaway, but also seeking ways to connect with nature, whether through yoga, meditation, or even fasting, as they step away to hide from the hustle and bustle of daily life.

Time here can be spent unwinding from you stress upon their handmade wood deck, as you absorb the sights and sounds of tranquil nature.

There is also a barbecue space and hammocks for lounging, making for a pleasant stay with friends and family. Understandably, Masako and Toshimitsu come here with their grandchildren to enjoy the summer together. 

When Masako was a child, in the hillside fields around the house people grew soba (buckwheat) as well as tobacco, which was dried inside with the smoke from the irori floor hearth.

Incidentally, the place where they built the goemon-boro bath used to be the barn for the family cow.

And the fields which once grew soba and tobacco are now home to cherry trees which they planted several years ago. 

So each spring, beautiful pink cherry blossoms explode all around, making the views from this place “in the Sky” all the more spectacular.

So why not reward yourself by staying at Retreat Space in the Sky Fujiwara, and enjoy the connections to nature it provides.

For certain, you will be able to have a relaxing escape from your everyday life.

Details about staying at Retreat Space in the Sky Fujiwara can be found on their website and facebook page:

Website: https://retreat-space-fujiwara.jimdofree.com/

Facebook：https://www.facebook.com/retreat.space.f/