Iya Soba at Momiji-tei: Part 3 | A Place to Experience the Essence of Miyoshi

2022.04.20

Situated in a stately thatched-roof farmhouse in Tokushima Prefecture’s Miyoshi City, “Momiji-tei” serves authentic Iya Soba noodles as well as other local delights. With fabulous views into Oboke Gorge, it is a place for lovers of both food and architecture.

Local Cuisine in a Traditional House

Aside from the delicious food, the other alluring aspect of Momiji-tei is the building itself. At nearly 200 years old, it is a stunningly restored example of a traditional Iya-style thatched-roof farmhouse.

Nowadays what few buildings of this type that remain are usually preserved to only act as museums, so being able to readily dine in here without any special reservations makes it all the more unique.

Inside, the pillars and cross-hatch of massive beams overhead have been blackened with centuries of soot, which formed back when the house still had its several traditional floor hearths (called “irori”) which were essentially open fires inside the house.

The smoke from the fires would fill the rafters (this helped preserve the thatch), and over the years the underside of the thatch roofing also developed a dark-red patina from all the smoke.

Looking up at the roof from inside is mesmerizing, and one easily gets a sense of the history of the building.

Resources of the Mountains

The tables at Momiji-tei are all made with thick slabs of wood. Several species of wood were used, including camphor, pine, and cedar, and the legs were custom built by local craftsmen.

It is certainly quite rare to ever see such thick, solid slabs of polished wood, let alone be able to eat upon them.

The Soft Light of “Washi” Paper

Another fantastic part of the interior of Momiji-tei is their collection of lamps made with various natural materials as well as with traditional Japanese “washi” paper.

Washi paper is made from the bark of Japanese mulberry trees, and this part of Shikoku is known for making this paper. Actually, in some of the lamps the raw unprocessed mulberry bark is fused together with the finished paper.

Two different local artists contributed to creating all the lights on display, and these one-of-a-kind creations that blend together the delicate local materials are a perfect accent to this elegant old farmhouse.

Engulfed in Nature

There are also lots of seasonal plants and flowers on display, and the staff contributes to these arrangements by bringing many of the flowers in fresh from their homes.

And then of course, there is the wonderful view.

In restoring the building, Ms Nishimura was sure to install large sets of glass windows all along the back side so that customers can take in the riverside landscape of Oboke Gorge.

Looking out from the windows, the emerald waters of the Yoshino River flowed by below, and in conjunction with the elegant interior, fabulous architecture, lovely garden, and delicious local foods, there is no doubt that Momiji-tei is a place worth seeking out.