日本三大秘境のまち

The Iya-no-Kazurabashi Vine Bridge is probably the most famed sight in Tokushima’s Miyoshi City, and several shops and restaurants in its vicinity cater to visitors the bridge attracts. But there are also places nearby where locals gather together, not just tourists, and in this article we introduce a small “izakaya” (“pub”) that is popular with the younger crowd of residents.

Local Connections

As the evening went by the number of customers at Onomiya steadily increased, with each new arrival welcomed by everyone in the way that old friends would do.

At one point the main dining room began to get too crowded, so everyone migrated over to the other part of Onomiya, which is a large tatami mat room with low tables and seating on the floor. For sure it was a rather casual space that was more like a living room than a restaurant.

As the drinks flowed the jovial banter increased, with everyone laughing about their daily lives or reminiscing of when they were younger and went to school together. A few of the older patrons gave friendly advice to the “youngsters” on how to manage businesses or families, while also slipping in their own good humored jokes as well.

For outsiders who come to visit the Iya Valley, it may be easy to imagine the area as just a sedate little town mainly home to an elderly generation still living a traditional lifestyle in isolated mountainside homes, but when looking under the surface there’s also a more vibrant facet of community life seldom seen, where the local people gather together to laugh at videos on their smart phones, discuss upcoming events at their children’s schools, and make grand plans about their futures. 

Beyond Nationalities

Also here this evening was a man from Taiwan. He came to Japan a couple years earlier to work in a local hotel, but he hasn’t been able to return home since first arriving due to coronavirus travel restriction. I imagined that as an outsider unable to see his family, that he might be pretty homesick.

Yet despite his foreign passport, since moving here he has made strong friendships among the local people. “I’m so glad I came to the Iya Valley”, he explained in fluent Japanese spoken with the local Iya accent, “I feel like this is now my second home!”

Tonight’s Special Guest: Kimchi!?

At one point well into the evening a local woman showed up and was warmly greeted just like all the others here. She sat amongst the group and soon took out from her bag a giant jar of home-made kimchi (spicy Korean pickled cabbage).

As she served it out on dishes for everyone there to enjoy, she announced how she used over 10 kinds of spices and several hours to prepare it. A bead of sweat erupted from my forehead as I tasted her devilishly delicious creation, and I asked more about her recipe. “Actually, I don’t even like kimchi,” she explained with a chuckle, “I just made it for everyone else because they requested it!”

As the sounds of laughter continued into the night, I could tell that Onomiya was a place for communication that transcended a regular izakaya. Not only was it a place for food and drinks, but also where relationships were both formed and cemented, where plans for life and livelihoods were made, and where the true character of the Iya people was revealed.

For info on Kazurabashi Taxi*, check their website (in English)

https://kazurabashi-taxi-en.jimdofree.com/

*if looking to utilize the taxi service, prior reservations are necessary.

(Text by: Shaun Lamzy)