日本三大秘境のまち

The Iya-no-Kazurabashi Vine Bridge is probably the most famed sight in Tokushima’s Miyoshi City, and several shops and restaurants in its vicinity cater to visitors the bridge attracts. But there are also places nearby where locals gather together, not just tourists, and in this article we introduce a small “izakaya” (“pub”) that is popular with the younger crowd of residents.

Nostalgic Buses of Iya

The Iya Valley in Miyoshi City is considered one of Japan’s “three hidden regions”, and if visiting this remote part of Tokushima Prefecture you may happen to see a few classic “bonnet” buses still actively plying the roads.

Taking their “bonnet” nick-name from their rounded roofs, one of these retro buses is painted a distinctive orange and yellow, and if you don’t see the bus itself, you will almost certainly see the building painted in its image when heading to or from the vine bridge.

This cutely painted place is the location “Onomiya”, which is an “izakaya” (a type of Japanese pub) that is popular with the local residents.

A Family Business

The owners of Onomiya are the Okura family, who also operate the Kazurabashi Taxi Company, and in turn, also own the orange and yellow bonnet bus which they offer for charter to visitors of Iya.

Manabu Okura runs the taxi business, while the izakaya is managed by his wife and his mother, Mrs. Okura. 

Upon entering Onomiya visitors are greeted by a large family photo from many years ago with them standing in front of their now-historic bus. 

Mrs. Okura took a break from cooking and pleasantly welcomed me from behind the counter. It was still early in the evening so she wasn’t yet busy. 

She explained that Onomiya had been in operation for about 15 years, and before this for many years she also ran a guesthouse just down the road. For a while she managed both businesses at the same time, but after a couple years it became too difficult to do both, so she now just runs Onomiya.

Pleasant aromas floated out from the kitchen as we spoke, and I looked forward to enjoying some of the home-cooked meals which she has perfected over the previous decades as both an inn-keep and chef.

Entering a Local Hideout

Onomiya is a fairly small place, and I stepped past the counter into one its two dining rooms. 

There were just a couple rows of tables with hardly a dozen chairs around them, while on the walls was a collection of manga comic books and a TV playing Tokushima’s news. It was a relaxing space that kind of felt more like a home which was not intentionally set up to be “touristy”.

Off to the side, an old-school wood stove radiated a deep warmth, and Mrs. Okura came over to put another log on the fire. It was a snowy day, and indeed, the heat emitted from the stove was warmer than the typical electric heaters usually found in Japanese restaurants.

Utilizing Iya’s Forestry Resources

Since seeing a wood stove in an izakaya is pretty rare, I asked about how they source their wood. 

Outside in the parking area, I had not only seen their covered stacks of chopped firewood, but also an enormous pile of un-cut logs. It certainly wasn’t something normally found at a pub and taxi business.

But being that this was a place where the local people of various trades come together to hang out, I was told that one of their friends and patrons works with the forestry department, and he brings over dead and otherwise discarded logs that are left-over when they thin the surrounding forests of the valley. 

And during his free time while not driving his taxi, Mr. Okura chops the wood along with his friends, which he also uses to heat his house. It’s apparently his way of staying fit since much of his time is usually spent sitting in the driver’s seat.

In Part 2 I’ll explain some of the dishes that Onomiya is known for serving. 

For info on Kazurabashi Taxi*, check their website (in English)

https://kazurabashi-taxi-en.jimdofree.com/

*if looking to utilize the taxi service, prior reservations are necessary.

(Text & Photos by: Shaun Lamzy)